Everything tastes better in bread. If it’s not already an aphorism, it should be.

The people responsible for Bunnychow know it. Put good stuff in a hollowed out loaf and eat the lot. But this is not a new concept. These shrewd guys pinched the idea from South Africa, more specifically from generations of Indians migrants working on Durban’s sugar plantations who took their lunch – often curry – to work in a loaf of bread. Genius.

Bunnychow started as a pop up, as it seems did most cool places worth visiting these days, refining their bunnies (the loaves themselves), filling them with saucy slow cooked meats and packaging them in fancy boxes. It’s the only place, as far as I’m aware, to realise the potential of a humble loaf in this way.

It’s neither a sandwich nor a soup, a fondue nor a stew; who knows what it is aside from a tasty meal in an edible bowl and only £6.50. I had their speciality, The Monkey Gland, meatballs in a smoky tomato based sauce with a lick of sweetness and a pinch of spice, topped with spring onions, peppers and coriander. And it was bloody good, especially when washed down with a vial of luminous cucumber mojito.

A poster inside suggests you should take your bunny and ‘cut its head off’ then ‘rip out its innards’. It’s not nearly as violent as they make it seem. No rabbits are harmed, and simian offal isn’t really on the menu. It may look like a massacre has taken place after eating, but they give you a wet wipe for that. Their interesting but sadistic marketing strategy gives it an identity – albeit one of a satanic white rabbit – that will get people talking.

The term ‘pop up’ usually implies whatever it is will pop back down again. Back down the warren of food markets, trucks and stalls; back into obscurity in a side street of Kings Cross or Dalston, replaced by another new-fangled, ‘trendier’ concept from some bum and his mate from Brixton.

The ones that work though, seem to explode – Meat Liquor, Honest Burger, Flat Iron to name a few. Bunnychow has made it with the big boys, securing a site slap bang in the middle of Wardour Street. It’s a lesser beast than some, but I think it’ll do well.


Bunnychow on Urbanspoon Square Meal