“Bread is the king of the table”, an American once said. So it’s no wonder a blistering, cast-iron tray of the stuff was ceremoniously lowered into the middle of the table with pageantry akin to a medieval banquet. The only thing missing from this royal centerpiece was a mouth with an apple in it. This wasn’t your typical loaf. It was cornbread, the cornerstone of Southern American cooking and the waiter’s one and only recommendation. For him to speak any higher of it he’d have had to stand on a chair. But despite being slathered in butter and honey it was the most ordinary thing we tried; although in the context of this meal, ordinary was nothing to be scoffed at. The rest of…