COVERS & CAPERS

London

Posts tagged “Soho

Blacklock – Great Windmill Street

Posted on February 18, 2015

You’ve got to hand it to Gordon Ker. He’s hard at work painting the frontage of his new restaurant on Saturday lunchtime when the rest of Soho seems to be celebrating. Not only is it half term, it’s the turn of the Chinese New Year and central is manic. But tucked down Great Windmill Street, Ker is quietly putting the finishing touches to his new baby having transformed an illegal strip club renowned for it’s dodgy dealings and exorbitant rates into a neat little basement restaurant offering chops and cocktails at refreshingly low prices. It’s a good job he’s outside. Apart from a temporary painted sign, it’s undistinguishable as a restaurant and we nearly walk right past it. He reassures us that they are…

Social Meat Club at The Sun and 13 Cantons – Great Pulteney Street

Posted on November 26, 2014

The Sun and 13 Cantons is a complete and utter mouthful. It’s also a pub with a difference. First, lets clear up the name. It derives from the Swiss woolen merchants that used to be nearby. The 13 Cantons, it turns out, correspond to the sovereign territories of early modern Switzerland. ‘The Sun’ part? Who knows? Maybe it was shining on its founder, a likely story because it’s been a blooming success for ages. Since the mid Eighteenth Century it’s been everything from a Masonic Lodge to an electro music venue. The late Nineties even saw names like Carl Cox and The Chemical Brothers grace the decks of its basement bar. But things have changed a bit since then. Recently the Fuller’s Brewery pub…

Yauatcha – Broadwick Street

Posted on November 15, 2014

Time flies when you’re having dim sum. Being drip-fed dumplings somehow quickens the clock. Underneath Broadwick Street in Yauatcha’s basement dining room, steady time evaporates. Down there it’s perpetual night. The pitch-dark ceiling with its constellation of tiny spotlights purges the room of daylight. Cerulean glass, gloomy brickwork and obsidian floors interrupt quotidian reality: you can eat dim sum from midday to midnight, completely ignorant to the passage of time; unless you have a film to catch, which I did. In fact, Christopher Nolan’s latest epic, Interstellar, positions ‘time’ at its thematic heart. Matthew McConaughey plays an astronaut whose job is to find an alternative planet for humanity as Earth nears its apocalypse, an intergalactic mission illustrating the mind-boggling effects of time dilation. This…

Bunnychow – Wardour Street

Posted on November 14, 2014

Everything tastes better in bread. If it’s not already an aphorism, it should be. The people responsible for Bunnychow know it. Put good stuff in a hollowed out loaf and eat the lot. But this is not a new concept. These shrewd guys pinched the idea from South Africa, more specifically from generations of Indians migrants working on Durban’s sugar plantations who took their lunch – often curry – to work in a loaf of bread. Genius. Bunnychow started as a pop up, as it seems did most cool places worth visiting these days, refining their bunnies (the loaves themselves), filling them with saucy slow cooked meats and packaging them in fancy boxes. It’s the only place, as far as I’m aware, to realise…

Flat Iron – Beak Street

Posted on November 9, 2014

When a restaurant chooses to serve one dish it’s got to be good. When that thing is steak I wonder what’s the point. I get it, every now and again people need a hunk of red meat. What better way to reassert man’s position at the top of the food chain than by tucking into an animal that is weaker than themselves. For blokes, there is nothing more manly than chewing on a thick piece of rump, wine-stained teeth bared, with bloody juices running into their beards whilst banging sharp serrated blades on rugged chopping boards. And when this steak craving arrives, and it will, (but no more than once every couple of months) you go big. You find a Hawksmoor, a Goodmans or…